Dear Visitor,

Many of common questions concerning shells might already been answered by collectors as I usually copy these in seashell-collector's FAQ.

You can find also the list at this adress :
http://www.seashell-collector.com/Html/faq.htm

Try to find your answer there before posting please.  

Frequently Asked Questions

POST N°1
- The meaning of terms like Fine, Gem, ++ etc
- Flaws on CYPRAEIDAE
POST N°2
- Adult shell Versus juvenile
- Albinism
- What means "crabbed" shell ?
- Keeping Dead (empty) shells in an Aquarium
- Grading, name of author & beginners books
- Best time for collecting seashells, is it in the day or in the night?
- PARTS OF A SHELL
- Measuring seashells
- Species Versus Form ?
- Space filler
- Price & Rarity of shells
- What causes the holes in bivalve shells?
- Getting the smell out of a Seafan
POST N°3
- How to be sure on shell data ?
- Sand dollars
- Spelling : a single or double "i" at the end?
- Shells & bad smell
- Shelling tools
- How do you dry coral ?
POST N°4
- Storing seashells ?
- Recovering bleached Cypraea ?
- How to clean shells ?


- The meaning of terms like Fine, Gem, ++ etc...
(Hi ! I am a beginner at shelling. I don't understand some terms on this hobby. May be some one can help me out ! For example, what is gem quality on shell, is that means it has no scar or good color ?)
"gem" means flawless, an absolutely perfect specimen with no defects discernable, even upon close inspection.

"fine" means minor flaws, either natural (like scars from healed injuries) or post-collection damage (minor chips on the lip of a cone shell, or fine scratches on a cowrie) which do not greatly detract from the scientific or aesthetic value of the specimen, and which are not readily apparent except upon close inspection.

"good" means that major defects are present, but the principle identifying characteristics of the species are still intact.

"+" can be used to represent grades intermediate between the principle grades mentioned above. "fine +" means "better than fine, but not quite gem". "Fine++" would mean "virtually gem", for example one minute flaw that would be difficult to find, even upon close inspection. "Good +" means better than good, but not good enough to be listed as "fine".

Some dealers use additional "+" signs - "fine +++", which makes the point that the shell is virtually gem, but I personally think it gets a bit silly after two "+" signs. A shell that is "fine +++++++++" should just be listed as "fine ++". That makes the point adequately. Now and then someone uses "gem -", which really means the same thing as "fine ++".

The system is somewhat subjective, and one dealer's "fine++" is another dealer's "fine+". After a bit of experience, you learn just how meticulous a particular dealer is in his grading of specimen shells.
(Answer by M. Paul Monfils via the Forum)

- FLAWS ON CYPRAEIDAE
(Original Forum Question : TO ALL SPECIALIST OF CYPRAEA. HAVE YOU EVERED CHECK YOUR CYPRAEA SPECIMENS WITH THE AID OF A FLOURESCENT LIGHT? I DID. DID YOU NOTICED SMALL SCRATCH MARKS EITHER ON THE DORSUM OR ON THE BASE. THESE SCRATCH MARKS IS TO SMALL TO BE CALLED A SCAR, A DING, AND INFACT, I DOUBT IF THERE IS A TERM FOR THIS AND IS TOTALLY INVISIBLE IF THE SHELLS IS ONE OR TWO FEET AWAY FROM YOUR EYES. THESES MARKS LOOK LIKE NEEDLE MARKS MADE BY SCRATCHING A NEEDLE ON GLASSES. IF THESE MARKS ARE TO NUMEROUS, IT ALWAYS, IF NOT SOMETIMES, AFFECT THE CYPRAEAS SHEEN. I REALLY DON'T KNOW IF THESE ARE JUST NATURAL AND NOT TO BE MINDED IN GRADING CYPRAEA OR ARE FLAWS WHICH IS THE EFFECT IF THE SHELL HAS RUB ON SOMETHING SHARP OR EVEN OTHER CYPRAEA. CAN ANYONE HELP ME? I HAVE MANY CYPRAEA IN MY COLLECTION AND NON OF THEM HAS BEEN GRADED GEM AND A FEW ARE JUST LUCKY TO BE GRADED GEM-/FINE+++. I AM ALREADY HAPPY TO AQUIRE A FINE++ CYPRAEA. ARE THESES MARKS FLAW OR JUST NATURAL? ANYONE?)
These tiny hairline scratches on the nacre can be either from natural or manmade causes. If the shell brushes against coral or falls onto sand or is buffeted by surf-tossed sand, such minute scratches can occur. Sand grains, being largely quartz and similar minerals, are much harder than the surface of the shell. But they can also occur from contact with mildly abrasive surfaces after collecting - sliding the shell across a tabletop, handling it with jewelry on your fingers, or even wiping the shell with a cloth that isn't soft enough or has some fine dirt or grit on it. Remember that the shell grading system is based on ordinary visual inspection - no flaws that can be detected upon close examination with the unaided eye. Special lighting may reveal some minute flaws that may not be seen otherwise; and magnification almost always will. Give me a good 20X microscope and I'll find flaws on any Cypraea, "gem" or not.
(Answer by M. Paul Monfils via the Forum)  

--Last edited by David Touitou on 2008-04-26 14:49:45 --

- Adult shell Versus juvenile
(Original Forum Question : How does a novice like me differeniate between an adult shell and a non-adult shell? Is it purely by size and if so what size makes an adult ?)
By looking and comparing as much shells as possible , in books as in reality . A mature shell usually has a good weight an full formed lip , very often young shells have nicer colours than adult ones , but I realise this information is not very practical. Some specific adult shells can look very imature . On the other hand some shells continue to grow eternally cfr. conus prometheus ( I dont know if the 10 cm plus specimens are indeed reproductive but I guess they are ) . Compare and ask advice to peers , dont by in a hurry unless from excellent origin.
(Answer by M. PVDB via the Forum)
he book you ordered is the best available for the geographic area it covers. Of course as its name indicates, it doesn't cover Atlantic cone species. Immature cone shells usally have a thinner, more fragile lip than mature shells. However, this is more helpful with some species than with others, because some cones have a rather thin, fragile lip even when mature (like C. gloriamaris). In most species though the lip is noticeably thicker and stronger in a mature specimen.
(Answer by M. Paul Monfils via the Forum)

- Albinism
(I'm looking for articles/information about albinism among shellpopulations. Any information is welcome)
Go to the archives of the Conch-L listserve at http://www.listserv.uga.edu/archives/conch-l.html Click on "search the archives". Then type in "albinism" or "albino" and run the search. You will find past discussions on the topic, with considerable information. Same is true for any other shell-related topic.
(Answer by M. Paul Monfils via the Forum)

- What means "crabbed" shell ?
(Original Forum Question : Hi, Just what does it mean when a dealer says a specimen was collected crabbed. What type of damage should one expect to find on such a shell. Thanks.)
"Crabbed" means that the original owner of the shell (the gastropod) had died and decomposed, and a hermit crab had moved into the empty shell. Hermit crabs are fairly fussy about shell size (they have to be - their life depends on it!) but they are not very fussy about shell quality. Therefore a "crabbed" shell can range from near gem condition to really awful condition. The crab actually does help to preserve the shell in the condition in which it "collected" it, because the crab supports the shell on its back and prevents the shell from being rolled around by the waves and currents as it would if empty.
(Answer by M. Paul Monfils via the Forum)

- Keeping Dead (empty) shells in an Aquarium
(Original Forum Question : I recently purchased 5 Golden Cowries just to use as aquarium decorations; will they deteriorate over time in my aquarium?)
They will deteriorate over time, and the rate at which they deteriorate will be affected by the pH (acidity/alkalinity) of the water. Some kinds of aquarium fish require slightly acidic conditions (pH about 6.5). Others require slightly alkaline conditions (pH about 7.5), while others prefer a neutral pH (7.0). If your tank is on the alkaline side of neutral, deterioration will be relatively slow. But if your tank is on the acidic side of neutral, not only will the shells deteriorate faster, they will also neutralize the water in the tank as they dissolve into it. Coral will have the same effect.
(Answer by M. Paul Monfils via the Forum

- Grading, name of author & beginners books
(Original Forum Question : I am a real shell collector beginner and really I'm looking for some basic information:
- I note there is a grading system as I've seen F and Gem. What is the full grading range and which is best/worst.
- I see often shells for sale or in collections and are shown like this example: Cypraea achatidea (Sowerby 1837). I understand the first two words but what does Sowerby 1837 mean?
- Are there good books (in Engish) for beginners which you would recommend?)
The principle grades are: gem, fine, good, and fair. "Gem" means an absolutely perfect specimen, flawless to the unaided eye. (The whole shell grading system is based on perceptions of "the unaided eye". With a microscope you can find a microscopic flaw on just about any shell, including "gem" specimens.) "Fine" indicates a shell with a rather obvious flaw, which still does not detract greatly from the overall aesthetic or scientific value of the specimen. "Good" indicates a rather severe flaw or several lesser flaws, which does seriously compromise the appearance and/or scientific value of the specimen. "Fair" indicates a shell which no collector is likely to want in the collection, but which still could have some scientific value if it is very rare. A plus sign (+) is used to designate a grade intermediate between the major grades. For example, "fine+" means better than fine, but still not gem. "Fine++" is often used to designate "virtually, but not quite gem". Careful closeup examination of the specimen is required to discover the flaw on a fine++ specimen. Further information can be found here: http://coa.acnatsci.org/conchnet/grad2faq.html

The name of a species consists of two latin or latinized words - the genus name (Cypraea), which is always capitalized and always a noun, and the specific name (achatidea), which is not capitalized and is often an adjective modifying the genus name. However, the specific name may also have several other configurations. The binomial name of a species is followed by the surname of the person or persons who originally described the species, and the year it was described.
(Answer by M. Paul Monfils via the Forum)

(Original Forum Question : What is the difference between "Hwass, 1792" and "Hwass,in Bruguiere,1792"?)
For a new species to be recognized, its descrïption must be published in an accredited publication. "Hwass, in Bruguiere, 1792" means that Hwass first described the species and assigned its name, but his descrïption was first published in a paper written by Bruguiere who, in that paper, identified Hwass as the author of the species descrïption.

- Best time for collecting seashells, is it in the day or in the night?
If you are collecting beach shells of course it really doesn't matter. The same shells will be lying there day or night. But if you are collecting live specimens, many species are active at night that are hidden during the daytime. Such species can often be found during the day by turning over rocks, sifting sand, etc., but at night many such species are actively crawling around and easier to see. Other species are plainly visible both day and night.
(Answer by M. Paul Monfils via the Forum)

Effectively, most of seashells go out at night. I noticed that they are mostly active just after the sunset. They do not hunt the whole night (too dangerous) and if they find their prey they go back to their hiding place. I studied them in live and in aquarium. In France, with the cowries, as soon as I turned light off, they were looking for their sponges...

Some species may also be active during daytime too. And shells usually do not go out at night when the moon is full. So the worst days are the ones when the moon is gonna be full. As soon as it decrease to be dark they are active again.

I noticed that when moon is in it's full period shells may go hunting during daytime too (too angry I guess...) and so do not wait dark moon period...
(Answer by M. David Touitou via the Forum)  

- PARTS OF A SHELL
(Original Forum Question : GOOD DAY COLLECTOR. I JUST WONDER WHY SHELL HAS IT'S OWN PARTS. I HAVE HD SOME WORDS WHICH I CERTAINLY DON'T UNDERSTAND. IS SOMEONE THERE WILLING TO GIVE THE MEANING OF THE FF. WORDS.
1. PERISTOME
2. LABRAL MARGINE
THAT'S ALL, BUT THERE MUST BE SOME OTHER WORDS WHICH I HAVE NOT HEARD OF. I KNOW THE WHAT IS A BASE AND A DORSUM, AND OFCOURSE, A LIP, BUT WHAT DO YOU CALL THE SHINY INTERIOR PART OF THE SHELL? IN THE CYPRAEAS BODY, THERE ARE SOMETIMES DARK SPOTS WHICH IS QUITE SMALL THAT IT IS ONLY VISIBLE IN VERY CLOSEUP VIEW, THEY LOOK LIKE STAINS THAT IS PRMANENT. I CALL THEM SMOKY BLEMISHES, BUT WHAT RE THEY NORMLLY CALLED? ANYONE?)
"Stoma" means "mouth", and refers to the "mouth" - or more correctly the "aperture" - of the shell. "Peri" means "around", as in "perimeter"; so "peristome" means "around the mouth", and refers to the rim or edge of the aperture, all the way around. "Labrum" means "lip", so the labral margin is the side of the aperture defined by the lip of the shell, as opposed to the "columellar margin", which is the side of the aperture bordering the columella, the central axis around which the shell is coiled.

The interior of the shell, shiny in some species, rather dull in others, has no special name I know of. It is usually just designated the "interior surface".
The markings you refer to in Cypraea - are they in the shell or in the soft parts of the animal - the foot or mantle? I don't know of any specific terminology for such markings in the shell. But crustaceans and some other marine invertebrates have minute contractile pigment-containing structures called chromatophores in the soft tissues. That may be what you are referring to, if in fact you are referring to the soft parts.
(Answer by M. Paul Monfils via the Forum)

- Measuring seashells
(Original Forum Question : I understand that there are some electronic devices for accurately measuring the mm of seashells. Can anyone refer me to websites of sellers of such equipment ?)There are plenty of them available on eBay, at quite low prices. I got a nice one on eBay for about $15.00, that measures objects up to 150 mm (6 inches) in .01 mm or .001 inch increments. Go to eBay (www.ebay.com) and search for "electronic digital caliper".
(Answer by M. Paul Monfils via the Forum)

- Species Versus Form ?
(Original Forum Question : Is Conus bocki a form of Conus sulcatus ? The book Shells of the Philippines says it is a separate distinc species (previously thought to be a form of sulcatus) but The Manual of the Living Conidae shows it as a form of Conus sulcatus. Which is correct ?)
There is really no way to definitively answer such a question. A taxonomic placement is not an absolute that can be precisely determined, like the formula of a chemical compound. Rather, it is the considered opinion of a taxonomist, based on his/her subjective interpretation of whatever objective evidence is available. Sometimes a given placement finds favor with the majority of authors. Other times one author interprets the evidence differently from another, or places greater weight on certain kinds of evidence than another, resulting in conflicting opinions regarding the proper placement. Since this is how all taxonomic assignments are made, and since there is no objective standard against which to measure such carefully considered opinions, one cannot dogmatically state that one opinion is "wrong" and the other is "right". We can consider the apparent relative expertise of the individuals offering such competing opinions, and decide which one inspires the greater level of confidence. Or we can state which opinion is currently accepted by the majority of experts; but that still is not an absolute indicator of "correct" vs. "incorrect".
(Answer by M. Paul Monfils via the Forum)

- Space filler
(I have been checking some shells list of certain dealers and in some ocassions I have seen a shell described: "Space filler"; does anybody knows actually what it means?, it is a kind of restoration?. well, that is the question: I will appreciate any answer...)
It means that the shell, though it is not the quality you might want, can "fill the space" of that missing species in your collection until a better specimen comes along.
(Answer by M. Paul Monfils via the Forum)

- Price & Rarity of shells
(THIS MESSAGE IS ALL ABOUT THE STATISTICS OF CYPRAEA GUTTATA AND AURANTIUM REGARDING THIER ABUNDANCE. FRANKLY SPEAKING, CYPRAEA AURANTIUM'S STATUS DURING THIS TIME WOULD BE RELATIVELY COMMON, WHILE CYPRAEA GUTTATA'S STATUS IS UNCOMMON. BUT WHY DOES NEARLY ALL DEALERS PRICE THIER AURANTIUM AND GUTTATA HIGH ABOVE THE PRICE LIST? THAT IS BECAUSE OF THE SHELLS HISTORY AS A GREAT RARITY BACK THEN. YES IT'S TRUE THAT GUTTATA IS A DEEP - WATER SPECIE, BUT AURANTIUM IS A SHALLOW WATER SPECIE, AND MUCH COMMON TOO. SO, WHY DOES THE SHELL HAVE NEARLY THESAME PRICE? SUPPOSEDLY, THE APPROVABLE PRICE OF A 100mm AND GEM AURANTIUM SHOULD BE $50-60.00, AND FOR A GUTTATA, A 50mm GEM FOR $65-70.00.. I JUST DON'T KNOW WHY DEALERS TEND TO EXAGERATE THIER PRICES FOR THIS TWO SHELLS, PROBABLY BECAUSE OF THE EXPENSE OF TRAVELING JUST GETTING THIS SPECIES. I KNOW A DEALER THAT EVEN SELLS A GEM AND 55MM GUTTATA FOR ONLY $65.00. WHAT A BARGAIN)
The price of anything depends on the interplay of both supply and demand. As you correctly stated, there is a good supply of both these species. Neither of them is a great rarity (though gem specimens of aurantium are probably as uncommon as gem specimens of guttata. C. aurantium is much more susceptible to damage and resultant growth scars than C. guttata is, due to its more hostile reef habitat). However, what keeps the price relatively high for these species - higher than for other equally uncommon species - is not so much a limited supply as the great demand for perfect specimens. These are two shells that virtually every collector craves, and the prices reflect that fact.
(Answer by M. Paul Monfils via the Forum)

- What causes the holes in bivalve shells?
(What causes the holes in shells? I collected shells on a South Carolina beach last week. Some are solid (halves) and some have a single very uniform hole on one end. Thanks!)
Such holes are caused by predatory snails, usually in the family Naticidae (commonly called "moon snails"). These snails regularly feed on bivalve mollusks like clams, mussels and oysters. They use their radula, a sort of tongue covered with tiny toothlike projections, to rasp a hole in the bivalve shell, allowing them to insert their proboscis and feed on the soft parts of the bivalve. (Answer by M. Paul Monfils via the Forum)

- Getting the smell out of a Seafan
(I recently returned from a trip to Cancun, and we were given a Seafan by a man who wanted to thank us for showing him this great spot to find shells. We brought all of our lovely shells home and they are scattered throughout my house to remind me of the wonderful turquoise water and coral sand.The Seafan, on the other hand, is sitting outside in 30-40 degree temperatures due to it having a very strong odor. It has been outside for a month now and it still stinks! Does anyone have any ideas on what to do with this otherwise lovely creature?)
The ideal treatment would be to soak the specimen in formalin (formaldehyde solution) for a couple of days, followed by soaking in alcohol, followed by drying. However, in the event you don't have access to formalin, or are not familiar with its use, just soaking in alcohol should help. "Rubbing alcohol" from the pharmacy is suitable. Sometimes they have rubbing alcohol that is 90% concentration. If so, that would be better than the 70% solution more often seen. Depending on the size of the seafan, you will need some sort of large flat container wide enough to allow the specimen to lie flat, and deep enough to hold sufficient alcohol to cover the specimen. If the specimen floats, put a weight on it to keep it submerged. After 24 hours or more in the alcohol you should discard the alcohol and cover the specimen with fresh alcohol for at least another 24 hours. It can stay in either alcohol solution much longer than 24 hours without harm if necessary. 24 hours is the minimum. However, if the alcohol begins to take on the color of the seafan (if the seafan is red for example, and the alcohol starts turning pink) that indicates that some of the pigment of the seafan is dissolving out. In that case, limit it to 24 hours in each alcohol, to avoid losing any more color than necessary. Seafans often lose much of their color anyway, once dried. Since yours is currently "refrigerated" it probably hasn't lost much color yet. Some people color them after they are dried by dying or spray paint of some kind. Once the specimen has been soaked in both alcohol solutions, just take it out and let it dry. If there is any residual odor while drying, it should be gone once the spcimen is completely dried.

Some folks spray seafans with lacquer or some sort of plastic spray to seal them and strenghthen them. This however imparts an unnatural gloss to the specimen. To seal and strengthen it without creating a glossy effect, there are a couple of methods. One is a matte finish spray that can be purchased at an art supply store. It is used, for example, to spray on charcoal drawings to "fix" them so the charcoal won't smudge when the drawing is handled. The other option is a mix of white glue like Elmer's Glue-All or Sobo Glue in water, about 1 part glue to 9 parts water. Spray or brush it on, shake off the excess, and let it dry. These coatings dry invisible but still seal the specimen against moisture and strengthen it.

One last consideration - if your specimen has a large "hold fast" attached at the base (like a "root ball" on a plant), that may be the source of most of the smell. Such a structure may contain many small mollusks, crustaceans, marine worms, and other organisms which collectively can produce quite an odor when dead. If that is the case, you still may be able to squelch the odor by soaking, though in this case longer soaking would be needed and formalin might be necessary. Alternatively, much of the odor may be eliminated by simply getting rid of the holdfast.

Note: Smells can be removed from shells using bleach, but don't try this on a seafan. It will destroy it. Good luck.
(Answer by M. Paul Monfils via the Forum)  s  

--Last edited by David Touitou on 2008-04-26 17:08:51 --

- How to be sure on shell data ?
(Original Forum Question : am quite into this shell collecting hobby already and as other collectors experience I begin to be more seroius on it and would want all if not most of my specimens with their individual information or data on them. I have been purchasing shells from shellshops in the philippines, auctions and sites in the internet and even exchanges ( of Phil. sp. only )from other places,,, but how can i be sure if the data labeled specially the place of origin plus the habitat where it was caught are the real or the right ones???? worst even how can I label shells which i bought from shellcraft stores ( who do not normally sell shells with complete data )with their exact place of origin...)
The only shells for which you can be certain of the collection data are those you collected yourself, and then only if you keep good field records and don't rely on memory. Receiving a shell from someone else who has personally collected it is reliable if that person keeps good records. But data on a shell purchased from a dealer cannot be verfied. For the most part, dealers do not personally collect most of the shells they sell. They purchase from wholesale suppliers, who for the most part likewise do not personally collect the shells they sell. Wholesalers typically purchase shells from various local collectors, fishermen, etc., some of whom may keep reliable records, many of whom do not. Some wholesalers try to keep separate data for each lot of shells they purchase. Others pool the shells of a given species, received from several suppliers. Some wholesalers, especially in the Philippines, make regular buying trips to various outlying islands, dealing with fishermen and local collectors, or with local suppliers who in turn purchase from local collectors. The chance that detailed collection data will remain with a specific shell through several changes of hands is, frankly, not good. That's why most dealers provide only fairly general locality data. Better to have accurate general data than inaccurate specific data. The above is not a criticism of the dealers in question. It's just the way it is, and it affects even the most honest and meticulous dealers. That having been said, there are of course some suppliers or dealers who will simply fabricate collection data because a specimen shell with data is worth more than a shell without data.
(Answer by M. Paul Monfils via the Forum)
I think You know the answer : if there are no data or if the data are not reliable , You just cannot know or be sure . At least if You find a cypraea englerti in a shell shop in florida You can presume it comes from somewhere on the Easter Island . Every collection has a good number of shells without or worse with wrong data . That is the real problem : shells provided with ( bona fide or MALE FIDE ) wrong data . I suspect data on some of my cernica from rare locations ( expensive )to have been manipulated , idem dito for cypraea ocellata that came from 5 " different " locations but looked suspiciously similar ( except the price who was tenfold for some of them ) .I prefer to have a nice cypraea without any data , than wrong data.[color=#d42a00]
(Answer by M. PVDB via the Forum)

- Sand dollars
(I'm interested in finding out more about "sand dollars". I know what they look like what am curious to know what kind of shell? they are and what they look like alive. Can you perhaps tell me)
Sand Dollars are not really "shells" in the strict sense. The shells that most collectors collect are from a group of animals called molluscs (or mollusks), which includes clams, oysters, scallops, snails, conchs, octopus, and their relatives. Sand Dollars belong to an entirely different phylum of animals called echinoderms, which also includes sea urchins, starfishes, sea cucumbers and their relatives. A sand dollar you find on the beach may be either smooth white or slightly fuzzy brown. If it's brown, it is a fresh specimen and looks just as it did in life, and is covered with microscopic spines. If it is white the spines have fallen off after death and it has been bleached by the sun.
(Answer by M. Paul Monfils via the Forum)

- Spelling : a single or double "i" at the end?
This is a question about the nomenclature convention, or, more specifically, the spelling convention.Sometimes I see the italicized spelling Hyriopsis cumingi or Hyriopsis schlegeli, and other times I see the italicized spelling Hyriopsis cumingii or Hyriopsis schlegelii. Which is correct: a single or double "i" at the end?The question goes to the naming/spelling convention. According to the taxonomy experts, single or double "i" ?
I have just received the last issue of Xenophora magazine (AFC publication : http://www.xenophora.org/ .
And guess what is inside ? The explanation of thye ii mystery

When some dedicate a species to someone (human) he transforms
the name with "us". Then Two cases appears :

The name does not already finish by a "i"
====> Name = cuvier => Conus Cuvierus
Then "us" bcomes "i"================>Conus Cuvieri

The name does already finish by a "i"
====> Name = cuvieri => Conus Cuvierius
Then "ius" bcomes "ii"================>Conus Cuvierii

I hope my english is not too bad
(Answer by M. Touitou David via the Forum)
Thanks for the information about the single or double i at the end of the species name.
That would mean that any species named for Hugh Cuming, whose last name does not end in an "i", would be spelled "cumingi", correct?
And assuming that Hyriopsis schlegeli (italics) was named for a man of German ancestry named Schlegel (sure looks and sounds to me like the German language), whose name does not end in an "i", would be spelled as typed above, correct?
Exactly but the author can latinize cuming as
cunmingus or can decide to latinize cuming as
cumingius... I guess the author latinized with a "ius"[color=#c63800]
(Answer by M. Touitou David via the Forum)

- Shells & bad smell
(Original Forum Question : I have just returned from a beach vacation where I collected many shells. How do I get the bad odor out of them)
If the whole animal is still in the shell it must be removed. This is usually accomplished by either boiling or freezing/thawing the specimen, followed by shaking the animal out, or picking it out with a thin sharp tool. Once the major portion of the soft tissues have been removed, the shell can be completely cleaned and deodorized by soaking in bleach (1 part Chlorox or other liquid laundry bleach to 9 parts water). For very dirty shells with a lot of heavy external matter, dilution can be 1 to 5. Lower gastropod (snail-type) shells into the bleach spire down, so the solution can run into the shell and fill the interior. Allow to soak for an hour to overnight, then flush under a strong stream of fresh water.
(Answer by M. Paul Monfils via the Forum)

- Shelling tools
(I amtrying to locate a "stick" or tool to use in picking up shells as I walk & comb along the beach. I have seen people using something that looks like a modified golf club. Do they make these themselves, our is there asource from which they can be purchased ?)
In medical supply stores that sell crutches, walkers, etc. they have such tools - a stick a couple of feet long with a sort of pistol grip on one end and a claw that opens and closes on the other end, for people who cannot bend over to pick up things. Larger pharmacies often have a department carrying such items.
(Answer by M. Paul Monfils via the Forum)

- How do you dry coral ?
(I found some wonderful pieces of coral on the beach in Bimini, Bahamas. They were still spongey and very wet, so they must have been broken in the surf that day. They've been sitting on my patio for a week, but they are still a bit soft. How do I make them harden and turn white? They're a greyish color right now)
There are two general types of corals - soft corals, where the matrix material is tough but flexible (a sea fan is an example); and hard or stony corals where the matrix is calcified, inflexible, and stone-like. If your specimen is flexible, it is not a hard coral and there is no way to make it hard. If it has a hard, stony core but is covered by a thin soft layer, these are the polyps and should be removed by soaking in 10% Chlorox for a few hours, followed by a fresh water rinse. This will also whiten the hard parts. However, if your specimen is a soft coral, or perhaps a sponge of some sort, soaking in bleach will completely destroy it.
(Answer by M. Paul Monfils via the Forum)  

--Last edited by David Touitou on 2008-04-26 17:38:03 --

- Storing seashells ?
Original Forum Question : I have a question about storing of seashells. I use some small wood boxes that have been used to store bottles of Wine. My seashells are directly put in it on a piece of fitted carpet. What do you think about this ?. Is it good for a long storage ?
It depends largely on two factors - the type of wood the boxes are made from, and the relative humidity of your storage area. Many woods slowly release acid vapors which can be destructive to shells over the long term. Oak is probably the worst. However, moisture is also important because the acids are released only in the presence of water, and the rate of acid release is proportional to the amount of moisture available. Shells stored in an oak cabinet in a humid environment often develop a powdery residue which is especially apparent on glossy shells like cowries and olives, though it is also present on other kinds of shells. This residue is actually the chemically broken down surface of the shell. The condition is often referred to as "Bynes's Disease". In non-oak cabinets, or in conditions of lower humidity, this process happens more slowly. But wood in general is best avoided...
(Answer by M. Paul Monfils via the Forum)
A dedicated page can be found at :http://www.seashell-collector.com/Html/storing.htm

- Recovering bleached Cypraea ?
Original Forum Question : I rencently accidentally sink 2 Cypreae with other shells in bleach and they came out terribly awful, their nice shiny surface turned into a chalky white color... Any idea on how to recover (at least a bit) of their original aspect?
I think it's really too late and I never eard of any solution to recover the natural glossy appearence of cowries (and other naturally polished shells)...
(Answer by Touitou David via the Forum)

- How to clean shells ?
Bleach is the best all around cleaning solution for shells. It doesn't harm the colors of the shells. It does remove periostracum, but on a shell with periostracum you can't see the colors anyway. Still, some serious collectors do like to have some specimenas with periostracum, and such specimens have to be cleaned without bleach. Bleach also removes many kinds of encrusting organisms as well as algae, ordinary mud and dirt, and most importantly, it removes any remaining soft parts of the animal from within the shell, thereby avoiding unpleasant odors. You don't have to use the bleach full strength. 1 part bleach to 10 parts water is sufficiently strong for most cleaning jobs. But stronger solutions can be used without harm to the shells. There are some exceptions. I don't use bleach on very thin, translucent shells, or on shells with a nacreous interior like pearl oysters and abalone. If you are nervous about using bleach, try it on a few less desirable specimens until you gain some confidence in the technique. After bleaching, just flush with water inside and out, and dry.
If the whole animal is in the shell, it has to be removed before using bleach. The usual ways of accomplishing this are:

cooking - start with room temperature water, put the shells in, bring to near boiling, then cool gradually. Avoid sudden temperature changes, or the shells may crack. Don't drop them into near boiling water, and don't remove them from very hot water and immediately rinse them with cold water. After cooking and cooling, the animal can usually be shaken or flushed or picked out of the shell with a narrow sharp instrument.

freeze/thaw - overnight in the freezer, then thaw at room temperature, after which the animal can be shaken/flushed/picked out of the shell.

microwave - some collectors like this method. I have tried it a few times. It's fast, and it seems ok for reasonably solid shells. But more fragile shells are likely to crack/break/explode, in my experience. put the shells inside a plastic container to prevent snail parts spattering all over the inside of your microwave.
(Answer by M. Paul Monfils via the Forum)

You may find some more tips in the shell cleaning section of this website, here: http://www.seashell-collector.com/Html/cleaning.htm

Original Forum Question : I recently found some shells on my honeymoon in the Carribean and need some advice on cleaning. The first is a cowrie that I found while snorkling. It is dead and has no meat inside of it, but it is encrusted with hard coral. I have always read that you need to be careful when cleaning cowries, but I have never found any advice on how to clean them. The second is a sea biscuit that was found freshly dead (I had to scrape some of the spines off it). I imagine that it could be put into a bleach solution, but I do not want to bleach it white and lose it's dark color. Any advice on cleaning/preserving would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!!!
Yes that cowrie is certainly in need of some cleaning! The problem in removing this kind of calcareous encrustation is that it is composed of the same material as the shell - calcium salts - and therefore any chemical that will dissolve the encrustations will also dissolve the shell. So chemical cleaning methods are out. Only physical methods can be used on something like this. That having been said, it is possible, depending on the type of encrustation, that a pretreatment with bleach will loosen or soften the encrustations somewhat, making subsequent physical methods a bit easier. This is because such encrustations often have a small proteinaceous component, and the bleach will dissolve out the proteins though it won't dissolve the actual calcium salts. With or without pre-bleaching, physical methods must follow. If you have access to one, I would first try an ultrasonic cleaner, to see how much of the encrustation will be removed by that means. If any of it comes off, continue to use the USC for a longer period of time. After that, if some of the white stuff still remains, patient picking with a sharp tool or scraping with a small sharp blade is about the only way of getting the stuff off, bit by bit. Most likely the gloss of this shell is already damaged, and no matter how carefully you clean it, it won't look like a live-taken cowrie.
Now, the sea biscuit - The test (shell) of this animal is actually white. The dark color is due to a layer of microscopic brown spines attached to the test, and associated muscle fibers and other soft tissue. Using bleach removes all the spines and tissues, and leaves just the white test. However, if you want to keep the specimen "natural", it isn't difficult to do. I usually soak such specimens in formalin for a few days, then alcohol for a few days. But I realize not all people have access to formalin, and also it is smelly and irritating and somewhat toxic. If you do have formalin and know how to use it, I believe that gives the best preservation. However, good results can also be obtained using alcohol alone. In that case, soak the specimen in alcohol for about a week, changing the alcohol at least once, after the first couple of days. Ethyl alcohol is best but isopropyl alcohol is adequate. Avoid methyl alcohol, which is sold as shellac thinner. The alcohol concentration should be at least 70%. "Rubbing alcohol" from the pharmacy works satisfactorily.

Once the specimen is preserved in the alcohol, it can be removed, drained, and then dried thoroughly in a warm, dry area. Outdoors is good, weather permitting, but it can be dried indoors too. However, in specimens prepared in this way the spines are not too securely attached to the test, and tend to gradually fall off, especially if the specimen is handled much. So I use an additional procedure to prevent that. I remove the specimen from the alcohol, soak it in water overnight to remove the alcohol, then soak it in 10% Elmer's Glue-all (10% glue, 90% water) for a couple of hours, then drain and dry. The glue dries invisible, but strenghtens the spine-to-test attachment. Other brands of white glue, like Sobo Glue, are equally good. (Chemically this is polyvinyl acetate). If you use glue, dry the specimen on a non-stick surface like wax paper, so you don't end up with the specimen glued to whatever surface it is lying on.
(Answer by M. Paul Monfils via the Forum)  

--Last edited by David Touitou on 2008-04-26 17:34:48 --